In 2005, 110 people all won at the Powerball lottery – many times more than the usual number. Fraud was of course immediately suspected. But the real cause of this hit to the lottery? The “lucky numbers” on a fortune cookie slip, distributed to many in Chinese restaurants across the country, and taken advantage of by the 110.

This is the inspiration for Jennifer Lee’s book on American Chinese food – which has as much influence from America as it has from China. She explores the many paths starting from fortune cookies – who was General Tso? Why do Jews like Chinese food so much? How much did your waiter pay for the privilege of serving you? (Tens of thousands of dollars, if they came through human smuggling.) It turns out that the history of Chinese food in America is intimately tied to the history of Chinese immigration and assimilation into America. Which all makes for an interesting history not just of food but also of culture.

Recommended, particularly the first half – the second half gets bogged down a bit in a quixotic quest to find the greatest Chinese restaurant in the world – there is a winner, but very few people would really care. American Chinese food, unlike in China, isn’t about being good – it’s about being familiar, being comforting, being, paradoxically, home.